Textile article



TEXTILE ARTICLE Filed May 28, 1936 INVENTOR Alfred J STeinberger Patented Aug. 16, 1938 UNITED STATES 'rsxma narrow Alfred J. Steinberger, Jamaica, N. Y., asslgnor Celanese (iorporation of America, a corporation of Delaware Application May 28, 1936, Serial No. 82 ,185

6 (llaims.

This invention relates to the production of cravats of the four-in-hand, bow, Windsor and the preformed and already knotted types and to the production of similar articles.

An object of the invention is the economical andexpeditious production of cravats that are resistant to wrinkling and that are more easy to fit around the collar when dressing. Other objects of the invention will appear from the following detailed description and drawing.

Cravats and similar articles formed in accordance with this invention have a smooth uniform texture at those parts which are inserted under the collar. By this means, it is much easier to place the cravat under the'collar and the cravat also slides moreeasily when adjusting the same for tying. Cravats made in accordance with this invention are particularly suitable for use with the so-called stiff collar in that the tie may be readily and easily inserted in the same and may be easily pulled to either side in adjust- 'ment thereof before tying the knot.

Cravats made in accordance with this invention also have the advantage, when employed with the soft or semi-soft collars, in that they tend to hold the body part of the collar in an upright position and prevent it from wrinkling while being worn. Although the cravats made in accordance with this invention are not necessarily rigid, they nevertheless have that property of being resistant to wrinkling and they impart the same property to the assembly of cravat and I collar. Cravats made in accordance with this invention also give a better appearance to the cravat at either side of the knot. Cravats constructed in accordance with this invention resist that tendency found in most cravats of rolling into a rope-like object at that part where they enter into the knot.

In accordance with my invention, I form cravats and similar articles by'laminating together the lining and the outer fabric of the cravatat that area thereof which normally lies under the back part of a collar. The laminating is preferably produced by causing at least a part of one ot the layers to coalesce and in that way bind the various layers together. The area. coalesced may extend from 2 to 12 or more inches, preferably 9 inches for men's ties, along the length of the tie.

Other applications of this invention may be made, for instance sashes or the ribbons that arethreaded through the sleeve bands of women's dresses may be formed in accordance with this invention. Also, the draw strings in half slips and pajamas may be formed, in accordance with this invention, by. imparting a wrinkle resisting property to that part of the strings which are threaded through the garment.

In the drawing, where there is shown a cravat produced in accordance with my invention, like reference numerals refer to the same or similar elements in the respective views.

Fig. 1 is,a perspective view of a cravat partially in section, which cravat is constructed in 10 accordance with one modification of my invention.

Fig. 2 is a cross-sectional view taken on the lin 2-2 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 isa cross-sectional view taken on the 15 line 3-3 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 41s a cross-sectional view of a cravat constructed in accordance with another modification of my invention.

As an aid in describing the invention, the de- 20 scription thereof will be made with particular reference to the drawing. A cravat is constructed from anouter fabric i having a lining of suitable material 2 and an intermediate lining 3 formed from a coalescible fabric or a fabric 5' which will cause coalescence of the outer fabric and/or lining fabric. The outer part of the eravat may be formed from the outer fabric l by cutting a fabric into the proper shape and then sewing the cut fabric into a tube. This may be 30 accomplished in the manner-normally employed in the manufacture of cravats. The lining fabric or fabrics may then be threaded into the tube.

formed by the outer fabric. The assembly may then be caused to coalesce over at least a portion 35 of its length, by suitable means, thus eifecting a union between the outer fabric and the lining.

In this manner of construction, there is no necessity for tacking the'lining to the outer fabric or of sewing the lining in place.

Many modifications of my invention may be made depending upon the types of fabric employed in the outer and lining portions of the cravat. For instance, when forming a cravat having an outer fabric containing filaments of an organic derivative of cellulose the lining may be any suitable liner normally employed in the manufacture of cravats which may or may not contain filaments of organic derivative of cellulose, while if the outer fabric of the cravat contains only non-thermoplastic material, then the lining must contain an organic derivative of cellulose or other thermoplastic material at least in that area that is to be coalesced or there must i,

be provided an intermediate lining containing a thermoplastic material.

The outer fabric l of the cravat may be formed of any suitable material such as silk, artificial silk, cotton, etc. The lining 2 may be formed of any suitable material such as linen, cotton, artificial silk, etc. When the outer fabric of the cravat contains no thermoplastic material it is preferable to have thermoplastic material woven into the lining fabric. This is not necessary, however, as an intermediate lining may be employed in the assembly, which intermediate lining contains the thermoplastic material. Furthermore the lining may be made by sewing or coalescing together three sections the two end sections being formed of any suitable material and the middle section being formed of a material that will coalesce and/or aid in causing 'the outer fabric to coalesce.

In one embodiment of my invention the outer fabric l of the cravat is formed of non-thermoplastic material, such as silk, cotton, etc., while the lining 2 is also formed of non-thermoplastic material, such aslinen, cotton, etc. In this form of the invention there is employed an intermediate lining 3 which consists of a fabric folded into U shape around the lining as is shown in Fig. 3. This intermediate lining 3 contains an organic derivative of cellulose or other thermoplastic material in a condition such that upon the application of heat and pressure to the assembly the same will coalesce, uniting the outer fabric to the lining.

In another form of my invention the outer fabric I containsfllaments of organic derivatives of cellulose, while the lining 2 is of linen, cotton,

etc. In this modification the lining 2 is treated over a portion of its length with a plasticizer for the organic derivative of cellulose in the outer fabric. Upon subjecting this assembly to heat and pressure the inner-face of the outer fabric is caused to coalesce at that part where it contacts with the plasticized lining, thus effecting an adhesion of the outer fabric to the lining at that part only. y

In another form of my invention, the outer fabric I may contain only non-thermoplastic materials, while the lining 2 may consist of a fabric containing thermoplastic yarns or filaments, such as those made of organic derivatives of cellulose. -In this modification a plasticizer may be added to a segment of the lining which,

,upon application of heat and pressure, causes coalescence of the outer fabric and the lining only at that part that contains the plasticizer. By these latter two methods a cravat may be formed which prevents wrinkling of the,collar and which is relatively thin at that part which passes under the wings of the collar. A cross section of this form of a cravat is shown in Fig. 4 wherein the outer fabric l is shown coalesced directly onto the lining 2.

' In any of the modifications of this invention, the cravat may be formed by sewing the fabrics in a normal manner and then causing the fabrics to coalesce and stiffen after the cravat is assembled. In this manner there is nonecessity for sewing or working with stiifened fabrics or fabrics containing gums, glues or other adhesive materials which tend to interferewith the handling and sewing of such materials.

This invention is applicable to the formation of cravats and other articles that have a face or outer portion containing yarns of non-thermoplastic materials interwoven or interknitted with yarns or filaments of an organic derivative of cellulose. as the outer fabrics, fabrics in which yarns of an organic derivative of cellulose alternate with nonthermoplasti'c yarns either in the warp or in the weft orboth in any'desired degree of alternation.

' This alternation may, for instance, be 1, 2, 3 or rivative of cellulose yarn and yarns of other fibres, i

while the weft may consist wholly of yarns of an organic derivative of cellulose or yarns of other fibres. Furthermore, the outer or body portion of the article may consist of fabric containingyarns made from mixed thermoplastic or nonthermoplastic fibres, which yarns may be formed by the woolen or cotton methods of spinning yarn. If desired, the outer fabric of the article may be For instance, there may be employed a fabric in which either the warp or weft consists solely of cellulose acetate yarn while the liner of the article consists of any suitable material impregnated with a sufficient amount of plasticizer. for the cellulose acetate of the body portion. The assembly of fabrics may be caused to adhere to each other by heat pressing in the presence or absence of water. Adherence effected under these conditions results in no alteration of the outer surface of the body portion since the plasticizer on the inner layer causes the organic derivative of cellulose, such as cellulose acetate. of only the inner side of the outer layers to soften or become tacky and to adhere.

Where the outer fabric of the article is made entirely of non-thermoplastic yarns the inner layer or lining may be wholly of yarns of fila? ments of an organic derivative of cellulose or a mixture of yarns of an organic derivative of cellulose and yarns of non-thermoplastic material. These yarns may be woven or knitted in any degree of alternation as described above with reference to the body portion of the fabric.

If desired, the organic derivative of cellulose maybe present in the lining fabric in the form of a coating. For example, non-thermoplastic fabrics employed as the lining may be coated with a powder or a slurry containing an organic derivative of cellulose and a plasticizer or they may be treated with a plasticizer and then coated with an organic derivative of cellulose.-

To obtain good adhesion and stiffening properties, it is preferable to have water present dur-. ing the application of heat and pressure, but it is to be understood that this is not essential to the successful working of this invention. The water may be present as an aqueous liquid or steam and is applied to the assembly of fabricsdn any suitable manner. Thus, the water may be applied to the fabric by spraying or brushing the fabric therewith or by padding the same on the material or by dipping the fabric therein. Where the body portion of the article does not contain organic derivatives of cellulose, in place of water there may be employed as an aid in coalescing the layers of fabric together an aqueous solution of alcohol with or without a plasticizer. If steam is employed, it is preferable to employ a wet steam and the same maybe injected into the material during the pressing operation in a manner similar to that of pressing woolen fabrics.

Any suitable device may be'used for pressing the assembled fabrics to cause them to adhere together. For instance, the fabrics may be pressed withhot irons, or the fabric may be passed between pressure rollers, one or both of which are heated, or between a heated pressing iron or plate and a cold board or surface. The heating device may be heated to a desired temperature, for instance, 80 C. to 180 C. or more, and the pressure may be of any desired degree,.

for instance, from to 600 pounds or more per square inch.

The thermoplastic material of the fabric, whether it be present in the outer layer, iln the lining or in the intermediate liner as yarns or filaments or as a coating on the fabric, may be any suitable derivative of cellulose, for instance, the organic esters of cellulose and cellulose ethers. Examplesof the cellulose esters are cellulose acetate, cellulose formate, cellulose propionate and cellulose butyrate, while examples of cellulose ethers are ethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose andbenzyl cellulose.

In order that the desired degree of stiffening and adherence be obtained upon heat pressing, the assembly, formed of the several layers of fabric, either in the presence or absence of water, it is of importance that there be present in the said assembly a plasticizer, softener or swelling agent for the organic derivative of cellulose employed in the assembly. Where the body or exposed portion of the article is made of nonthermoplastic materials, the plasticizer or softener may be applied to the assembly, after the assembly is formed, by dipping the same into a solution containing the plasticizer or softener. However, it is preferable to apply the plasticizer to an inner layer of fabric. When applying the plasticizer to an inner layer of fabric prior to forming the assembly, no wetting of the exposed. layers of the article is necessary. While it is preferable to apply the plasticizer to an inner layer of fabric, it may be present in any of the layers of fabric. However, if the exposed surfaces or the outer layers are not to be modified, the plasticizer should be absent from those layers and be applied only to the inner layers.

The plasticizer may be applied to the fabric in any suitable manner. Thus, the plasticizer or high boiling solvent for the organic-derivative cf 1 cellulose employed in the assembly may be applied to or incorporated in the fabric by passing that part of said fabric which is to be plasticized through a solution of plasticizer, by padding the plasticizer on the fabric or by spraying on the fabric a solution of plasticizer in a volatile solvent, or, when the inner layers of fabric contain yarns of an organic derivative of cellulose, the plasticizer may be incorporated in the organic derivative of cellulose yarns or filaments as they are formed by adding the same to the solution from which the yarns or filaments are formed or by applying same to the yarns or filaments during the spinning operations. However, any other suitable method may be employed for impregnating the inner layer fabric with the plasticizer.

Any suitable plasticizer may 'be employed,

- which plasticizer may or may not be soluble in water. The plasticizers may be any of thehigh boiling solvents or softening agents as, for eggample, the aryl sulphonamides such as para ethyl toluol sulphonamide, the alkyl phthalates such as dimethyl phthalate, the dialkyl tartrates such as dibutyl tartrate, the alkoxy esters of polybasic organic acids such as diethoxy ethyl phthalate, the polybasic acid esters of the mono alkyl ethers of polyhydric alcohols such as diethylene glycol ethyl ether ester of phthalic acid, the alkyl esters of phosphoric acid such as triethylglycol phosphate, the aryl esters of phosphoric acid such as tricresyl phosphate, the mixed alkyl and aryl phosphate such as ethylglycol dicresyl phosphate,

, and camphor.

The amount of plasticizer present is preferably relatively large and on the order of from less than to 150% or more, based on the weight of the organic derivative of cellulose'present, in that part of the assembly of fabrics which is to be coalesced. Where the article comprises an organic derivative of cellulose body portion and a lining of cotton fabric, the amount of plasticizer applied to the cotton fabric may be as much as the cotton fabric will absorb and retain, i. e., the cotton fabric is saturated with the plasticizer.

As examples-of the methods by which cravats may be formed in accordance with this invention, the following examples are given:

Example I approximately the center and dipped at the double portion about 4 inches in the solution of dimethoxy ethyl phthalate, triacetin and al-.,

cohol in such proportions that upon removing the fabric from the solution there remains approximately based on the weight ofthe fabric, of dimethoxy' ethyl phthalate and triacetin. The lining is then inserted into the tube formed of outer fabric and the assembly is subjected to heat and pressure. In this manner a cravat is formed from an outer fabric and a lining, the lining being tacked to the inside of the outer fabric over that portion which contains a plasticizer, that is over about 9 inches of the cravat which in use will be under the back portion of the collar.

Example If A fabric consisting of silk. or other non-thermoplastic fibres is suitably cut and sewn into a tubular form suitable for the outer. fabric of a cravat. A fabric comprising yarns of non-thenmoplastic fibres and yarns or filaments of cellulose acetate is cut into a suitable shape. The lining fabric is treated at the center for about 9 inches of its length with a plasticizer for the organic derivative of cellulose. -The lining -is then inserted into the tubular shaped outer fabric and the assembly subjected to heat and pressure. In this manner a cravat is formed having an outer fabric of non-thermoplastic material and having the outer fabric coalesced to the lining over about 9 inches of its length at that part normally inserted under the collar when in use.

Example III Any suitable cravat fabric is cut to shape and sewn into a tubular form forming the outer fabric of a cravat. Any suitable lining fabric iscut to a suitable form for insertipn into the tubular outer fabric. A strip of approximately 9 inches in length of a fabric containing organic derivatives of cellulose and a plasticizer is bent in a U shape around the lining fabric. The assembly of the lining fabric and the U shaped fabric is subjected to heat and pressurein the absence of moisture. The heat and pressure may be just sufficient to cause a tacking together of the two fabrics without undue stiifening. This assembly is then inserted into the tubular form of the outer fabric and the whole assembly again subjected to heat and pressure, preferably in the presence of moisture. In this manner the cravat is formed having an outer fabric of non-thermoplastic material and a lining of non-thermoplastic material,

with the lining in the outer fabric coalesced together over that area normally inserted under the back part of the collar.

It is to be understood that the foregoing detailed description is given merely by way of illustration and that many variations may be made therein without departing from the spirit of my invention.

Having described my invention, what I desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. A necktie comprising a lining and an outer fabric at least partially enveloping the lining, said necktie having unstiifened end portions of substantial length and a stiffened portion intermediate the ends and adapted to embrace the collar of the wearer, the lining and the outen fabric being adhesively secured to each other and stiffened at the collar portion by an organic derivative of cellulose.

2. A necktie comprising a lining and an outer fabric at least partially enveloping the lining, said necktie having unstiffened end portions of substantial length and a stiffened portion intermediate the ends and adapted to embrace the collar of the wearer, the lining and the outer fabric being adhesively secured to each other and stiffened at the collar portion by cellulose acetate.

3. A necktie comprising an outer fabric containing filaments or fibers of an organic derivative of cellulose and a lining fabric composed of non- ..thermoplastie material impregnated with a plasthe wearer, the lining fabric and the outer fabricbeing adhesively secured to each other and stiffened at the collar portion by the organic derivative of cellulose and the plasticizer for the said organic derivative of cellulose.

4. A necktie comprising an outer fabric containing filaments or fibers of cellulose acetate and a lining fabric composed of non-thermoplastic material impregnated with a plasticizer for the cellulose acetate along the portion which adheres to the outer fabric, said necktie having unstiffened end portions of substantial length and a stifiening portion intermediate the ends and adapted to embrace the collar of the wearer, the lining fabric and the outer fabric being adhesively secured to each other and stiffened at the collar portion by the cellulose acetate and the plasticizer for the said cellulose acetate.

5. A necktie comprising an outer fabric composed of non-thermoplastic material and a lining containing filaments or fibers of an organic derivative of cellulose impregnated with a plasticizer for the organic derivative of cellulose along the portion which adheres to the outer fabric, said necktie having unstiffened end portions of substantial length and a stiffened portion intermediate the ends and adapted to embrace the collar of the wearer, the lining and the outer fabric be-, ing adhesively secured to each other and stiffened at the collar portion by the organic derivative of cellulose and the plasticizer for the said organic derivative of cellulose.

6. A necktie comprising an outer fabric composed of non-thermoplastic material and a lining containing filaments or fibers of cellulose acetate impregnated with a plasticizer for the cellulose acetate along the portion which adheres to the outer fabric, said necktie having unstiffened end portions of substantial length and a stiffened portion intermediate the ends and adapted to embrace the collar of the wearer, the lining and the 'outer fabric being adhesively secured to each other and stiffened at the collar portion by the cellulose acetate and the plasticizer for the said cellulose acetate.

ALFRED J. STEINBERGER. 

